How hard can it be to change the brake pads on a Triumph Rocket III?
It is pretty darn easy as long as you don’t read the service manual when you get ready to do the rear pads.
You heard right, DO NOT read the instructions in the Triumph Rocket III service manual if you want to know the correct way to change out the rear brake pads. They wrote clear, simple, and accurate directions for swapping out the front pads, but apparently the yearning fool came on shift right after that and wrote the incredibly misleading and confusing instructions on changing out the rear pads.
In spite of what the manual says, all you have to do is remove the two cotter pins that hold the back caliper pin in place and pull it out. Next, lay the pin and cotter keys on the concrete so the pin rolls away under a nearby vehicle and the cotter keys get stuck in between the treads on your boot. Then slide the old pads out to toward the rear. You may have to do a little jigling, they have a hook at the front that keeps them in place. Get the front end angled up and they should slide right out.
Now, slide a flat piece of metal such as a screw diver shaft in between the piston cup and rotor. DO NOT pry with it. Get your finger tips under each end of the shaft and use hand pressure only to compress the piston cup back into its cylinder. Slide the new pad in and make sure the hook part at the front gets over the front pin, then repeat on the opposite side of the rotor.
Take your time, and if something doesn’t seem right, put it back together and take it to your dealer. Don’t go doing crazy stuff like reading the manual and trying to figure out how to take that spindle nut off. You’ll find yourself trying to figure out how to get an eight hundred pound bike without a back wheel onto a trailer so you can take it to the shop.
You’re almost there. Take a deep breath and hunt down that rear caliper pin that you previously set on the concrete and subsequently kicked under the car without realizing it. You should find those two cotter keys somewhere close by as well, unless they’ve gotten wedged in between the treads on your boot.
Put the rear calliper pin back in, insert the cotter keys, pump up the brake pedal, and you’re ready to go.
Check this thread out at the R3owner forum if you’re still confused: http://www.r3owners.com/showthread.php?24334-Changing-brake-pads.&highlight=rear+brake
The next time you change those rear pads it should take you less than five minutes. It took me about five, not including the two hours the night before I spent trying to figure out how to follow the bogus instructions in the service manual and looking for specialty tools to hold the axle fast so I could remove the spindle nut. Thank goodness I wasn’t able to locate that tool.
By the way, see that nasty scrape on the side of my rear calipr housing? That’s leftover damage from my crash last November that the jerks at BMW/Triumph of North Dallas (Plano) didn’t alert me to or repair on top of all the other things they put on upside down, didn’t tighten properly, or just flat failed to complete. I didn’t know it was there until I took the saddlebag off on that side to do this brake pad job. Yet another reason why they will never get any more of my business and all work on my bike in the future will be done by Eurosport Cycle of Fort Worth.